By Tamara Galbraith

Once believed to cure everything from mad dog bites to baldness, the onion has never ceased to amaze — both in and out of the kitchen. Onions are perhaps the most versatile veggie in existence, when it comes to cooking.

As for growing, onions are also versatile. Gardeners can purchase both dormant "sets" as well as transplants, or start onions from seed. (Whether you decide to start onions from sets or seeds, it's good practice to pre-soak them in compost tea for 15 minutes prior to planting.)

What's nice, in the case of bulbing-type onions, is you can harvest them at the point of your choosing; that is, if you want a bulbette size, pull 'em up early, or let them get to burger-slicing size if you wish. Green onions, also known as scallions or bunching onions, are also easy to grow, and mature faster than bulbing onions do.

No matter what starting form you choose, onions prefer growing conditions that are cool but not cold, plus well-draining moist soil, and at least six hours of full sun per day. Dig in a good soil amendment, such as _GO1_, before planting. If you're planting sets, space them about 2"-6" inches apart, depending on the onions' mature size, and about 1/2" deep in the ground, making sure the pointed end is facing up.

Bulbing onions are fully mature when the tops turn brownish yellow and droop over. After carefully digging them from the soil, you should leave onions either outdoors or inside in a well-ventilated area to cure for about two weeks. This will allow the outer skins to dry and will help them to store better.

Onions make excellent, well behaved neighbors for fast-maturing, early spring veggies such as lettuce, as they both like the same growth conditions and can be snuggled in together without too much interference.

by Tamara Galbraith

You've probably heard the term "double digging" before. And if you heard it during a conversation among gardeners, the words were probably followed by a collective groan.

Double digging is so named because trenches are dug at double the depth of a common spade or shovel. Originated by the French in the late 19th century, this technique is one of the oldest -- and best -- methods for creating raised beds with good drainage and well-aerated, healthy soil.

You'll need a heavy square-edged shovel and a strong spading fork for this project. Make sure the soil isn't too dry or too wet before you prepare to dig; then mark off the area to be worked.

For the first row, dig a trench one shovel length deep and two wide, placing the squares of turf in a wheelbarrow as you go. Use a spading fork to loosen the soil at the bottom of your first row, until the depth of the trench is about 12". Add about 1" of compost to the row.

Dig a second trench of the same size alongside the first. As you dig, flip the turf and topsoil into the first trench, grass-side down, if applicable. Again, loosen the soil at the bottom of the new trench and add a small layer of compost.

You can continue this dig-and-flip progression for the entire length of your planned garden bed. When you get to the last row, use the turf and topsoil dug up and set aside from the first row. Just be sure to add compost in each row to boost the soil's fertility and macrobiotic activity.

Thankfully, you won't need to repeat this technique every year, as your double-dug beds should last for a couple of growing seasons, at least...which is probably more than you can say for your aching back.

by Tamara Galbraith

With warm weather just around the corner, but temperatures still in the cool range, it's a great time to start some lettuce seeds in your garden. Lettuce is easy to start, matures quickly, and offers a "cut-and-come-again" growth habit that can give you several salads from the same plant.

Looseleaf, butterheads and romaines are the easiest and most nutritious lettuces to grow. What is commonly referred to as iceberg lettuce is generally a waste of time for the backyard gardener, as it is fussy and, frankly, not nearly as tasty.

Germination of lettuce seed requires two elements: lots of moisture and light. Do not bury lettuce seeds, but rather scatter them over some fertile, fluffy, moist soil (you may want to amend with _L1_ before planting), then sift some compost lightly on top of the seed and press down gently. You will probably see germination in about a week if soil temperatures are around 50 degrees. Alternatively, you can buy already-started plants.

Lettuce can and should be grown outdoors in a sunny location as long as temperatures stay above freezing at night — if an unexpected freeze comes, simply toss a few layers of frost cloth on top of the plants and they should be fine.

Make sure the soil stays evenly moist as the plants develop. Thin seedlings to allow about 6" between plants (or plant 6" apart if you aren't starting from seed), but don't worry too much about overcrowding.

Leaf lettuces are particularly fast-growing; they reach maturity in 45-60 days, while romaine and butterhead/bibb types can take up to 70 days. You can harvest individual leaves to eat, or give each plant a crewcut about 2" above the soil line and let it regrow.

There are many beautiful, tasty types of lettuce in all sorts of shapes and colors. Check with us to see what varieties are best for our area, as some are more heat-resistant — a definite benefit to those in the sun-baked South — while others are cold-hardy and good for growing in northern climates.

Most varieties of lettuce are generally disease- and insect-resistant. The biggest enemy of lettuce is heat, which is why early late winter or spring is the perfect time to start lettuce. Once regular warmth comes along — say 80 degrees or more — lettuce will quickly "bolt," meaning the plant suddenly puts on a growth spurt, then sends up flowers and goes to seed. At that point, it tastes so bitter and chewy that even the bunnies won't touch it.

Note for those with limited space: lettuce may be grown in containers (1 gallon or larger). This also has the advantage that you can move the containers to a cooler spot when the weather gets warm, thus keeping them from bolting for a little bit longer.

By Tamara Galbraith

One of the plants I currently have on order and am looking most forward to receiving is the beautiful (and fairly new) variegated Euphorbia 'Tasmanian Tiger' (Euphorbia characias).

Hardy to USDA Zone 7 (or 6 with some pampering), this drought-tolerant beauty from the spurge family more closely resembles a green-and-white zebra than a tiger. It is an upright, shrubby plant and can get 3-4' high including the wildly striped flower stalks...but it's the gorgeous, white-margined foliage you'll be drooling over.

Tasmanian Tiger was discovered in 1993 in — you guessed it — Tasmania, which says everything about its growth habit. Keep it in a well-draining, sunny spot, and prune the flowers back at the base after blooming is finished. Expect this vigorous euphorbia to get about 3' wide, so plan accordingly to allow for sufficient spacing and air circulation.

This tiger does have teeth, however; as is the case with all euphorbias, you should ALWAYS wear gloves when handling. The plant's white, milky sap is both poisonous and a skin and eye irritant.